Advanced Scribal Materials

Caveat: Much of the following is solely one person's opinion. As with most crafts,within certain parameters, there is no hard and fast "right" or "wrong," only what works best for you. This handout is merely meant to be a starting point for you to discover where you want to go. If you should have any questions,comments or input, please feel free to contact me at the address below. Another good source of information is the Kingdom Signet, whose address and phone number are listed in Pikestaff.

Mistress Eloise of Coulter, OL, OP
Kris Benysek
161 -B4 Cynthia Lane
Middletown, CT 06457

Paper | Standard Frame Sizes | Drafting Tools | Pens | Inks | Paint | Paint Brushes | Gold | Storage
New Scribes Shopping List | Stores/Mail Order Suppliers
The Scribes Bookshelf


Always use 100% rag, acid free paper. It costs a little more, but there's no use putting all of that work into a scroll if it crumbles into dust in ten years. Therefore, we don't even need to talk about those nasty packages of "Calligraphic Parchment Paper," now, do we?

Watercolor Paper: Any weight from 90 to 140 lbs will do.
Hot Press: This paper has a smooth surface or "tooth" - the fibers don't tend to fuzz up as you work. Works very nicely for scrolls. $4 - $6/ sheet.
Cold Press: The fibers are looser, making the surface rough. This can work for scrolls, but I find it tends to clog my pen nib, and I have trouble achieving fine detail painting on it. $4 -$61 sheet.

Bristol Board: 3 ply is perfect, 2 ply for very small pieces, 4 ply for very large.

Plate: This paper has a very smooth tooth - almost like glass. It is good for very small calligraphy, where any bleeding at all will ruin the letters. It is difficult to completely remove pencil lines, however. $5.50 - $10.50/sheet.

Kid: Except for the afore mentioned microscopic calligraphy, this is my personal favorite. It has a slightly textured tooth, with a little more "character." The tooth holds ink and paint well, and is reasonably forgiving of multiple erasures, guidelines, scraping, etc. $5 -$1 0/sheet.


Bristol (Pad): This is good for practice and small projects. It is too flimsy to be a good base for a scroll larger than 11" x 14" at the very most. It is a good resource for the new scribe, and you can always make signs out of it. $6 - $8/pad.

Vellum Tracing Paper: This stuff has a multitude of uses. Primary among them is transferring (sounds better than trace, doesn't it) designs from another sheet of paper to your scroll. And yes - tracing is period. Explanation upon request. It is also very good to use as a protective sheet between the parts of the scroll you aren't currently working on and the rest of the world, because you can cover the scroll, but still see it. This paper comes in handy-dandy 11 x 14 pads. One pad lasts close to forever. If your store offers a selection, buy the heavy weight. About $8.

Vellum (real): This is mostly for the experienced scribe, but don't let it frighten you if you can get some. Depending on where you buy it, it can be sickeningly expensive, and to use it properly, there is a whole procedure for treating it first. However, if you can find it cheap, buy it up, put it away, and work on it when you feel comfortable with it. WARNING: Drafting vellum is NOT real vellum. If a store is selling what they call vellum, confirm that you are both speaking the same language. Vellum is calfskin (Parchment is sheepskin). Animal hide. Critter husk. If it didn't used to be alive, IT'S NOT VELLUM. Accept no substitutes.

Brands: Good brands of paper include Arches, Fabriano and Strathmore (my pick). Any good art store that sells paper by the sheet should carry one or more of these. Expect to buy a 23" x 29" or 22" x 30" sheet and cut it down. As mentioned before, the paper in pads is usually just too flimsy.

A final word on buying: many art store employees are knowledgeable and helpful. Many are the local teenagers at their after-school job. In this hobby guessing wrong on materials can get very expensive, very quickly. Know what you are looking for before going in (although browsing is an awful lot of fun). If they offer a substitute and you aren't sure, go elsewhere before you buy. Check with people you trust. And when you go to the checkout, be able to tell them exactly what you have - odds are, the cashier may know less about paper than you do. He'll be grateful not to have to guess - and so will the people in line behind you.

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Standard Frame Sizes: This is my pet peeve, my soap box, my list. PLEASE make your scrolls fit into one of these frames.
5"x7" 3 1/2"x5" 11"x14" 8"x10"
8"x10" 5"x7" 16"x20" 11"x14"

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* life will end if you do not own this. The rest are nice, but not absolutely necessary.

*Cork-backed ruler: This is a must have, because the cork prevents the ruler from sliding on the paper, and elevates the edge so that you can use it with a technical pen without the ink bleeding underneath. I own three of them myself: 15", 18" and 24". Here's why: the 18" is good for working on scrolls of any size. The 24" I use to cut down the sheets of paper, and the 15" fits into my scribe's kit and the lid still closes. $6 - $10.

*Ames Lettering Guide: Allows you to draw perfectly parallel, identical guidelines quickly and painlessly. Buy one. Read the directions. About $2.

*Automatic pencil: No sharpening required. Need I say more? Available in .03mm and .05mm. I prefer the smaller. $8 - $10

Lead: As anyone who ever took a drafting course or a standardized test knows, lead comes in different hardnesses. This is indicated by what "H" the lead is. 6H is the hardest, giving the lightest line, and H is the softest, giving a very dark line. The others of course, fall in between. There are advantages and disadvantages to which lead to use. H lead gives a very faint line. This is good for guidelines you don't want to be seen later. However, this lead is so hard that it tends to dent the paper. Even after all trace of the lead itself has been erased, the guidelines are often still visible, especially on smooth paper. H lead gives a dark line, and usually does not damage the paper because of it's softness. However, it smears something fierce, and can create an unholy mess if you're not protecting the scroll from having your hand dragged over it. BUT - an eraser takes care of this problem. I use H lead and am careful of smudges.

*Soft white plastic eraser: The pink erasers will leave pink smears on your scroll. This is bad. Staedlter makes a nice block eraser. The "click" style pencil-like erasers are great for getting into corners. Block: about $1. Click: about $2.

*Compass: Minimally, you need it to draw nice shields. Surprise, it's good for circles too! (see circle template below). About $8.

Templates: These are great. Life becomes much simpler with nothing more than a circle template and a square template. You can add more obscure ones later. They come in an amazing variety of sizes and designs. $4 - $12.

Triangles: I have both 45-45-90 degree and 30-60-90 degree triangles in a variety of sizes, and use them for a variety of things. Large (12" - 16") right angle triangles can immensely simplify layout, as they eliminate all of the measuring back and forth and lining up the ruler. BUT - your base line MUST be accurate! They are also wonderful for laying out the grid for a diapered area without having to measure every diamond. $3 - $6.

T-square: T-squares are very useful for layout in conjunction with triangles and lettering guides. The drawback is that to use them accurately, you must tape your scroll down to the drawing board, and you can't use them without the board, so they don't travel effectively. $10 and up.

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There are many different brands of calligraphy pens on the market, with more coming out all the time, and an enormous price range. Here is a selection of the cartridge (fountain) pens, from the cheapest to the most expensive.

Felt-tip chisel point markers: We don't even need to mention these, do we?

Schaeffer: These are the calligraphy pen sets that you see in every art store, department store, office supply store, etc. They come with three nib sizes: small, medium and large. These pens are good for the very beginning calligrapher who wants to try this out without spending any money, or the Scadian who just wants to have a pretty signature (but NOT the Royalty. They need a good pen). That's about all that they're good for. About $10.

Platignum: I've heard nice things about these, but have no personal knowledge of them.

Panache: These seem to be decent pens with several nib sizes. I have not tried them.

Parker: I've only played with one of these that belonged to someone else, but it was a lovely little pen. It worked best upside down. Don't ask, just take my word for it.

Osmiroid: Many scribe will tell you how horrible these pens are - and I use them almost exclusively. I believe that the company has improved them. They come in an assortment of sets, and there are 15+ nib sizes, all of which may be purchased separately, along with spare barrels. These pens are often hard to buy - most retailers have the "Masters" or "Italic" sets, a bunch of left-handed nibs, and not much else. Getting the nib you want can be difficult, but if the store carries the brand they should be able to order the nib you want. The nibs run about $5 - $6, extra barrels about $8, and the sets range from $20 - $30 for six nibs.

Rotring: Many people view these as the Rolls-Royce of cartridge calligraphy pens. And indeed, they are very nice. There are five nib sizes available: 2.7mm, 2.5mm, 1.9mm, 1.5mm and 1. 1mm. These are lovely pens if you don't mind the size limitations and can afford them. They run from $15 - $20/pen, depending on the store. A set of the three smallest nibs with a case, box of ink cartridges and a sharpening stone is about $45 - and worth it. If you can only have one, I recommend the 1.5mm as a good, all-purpose pen.

Technical Pens

Technical pens are wonderful to have for hairlines and flourishes in your lettering, outlining in your illumination, etc, etc.

Rapidoliner: These are disposable tech pens by the people who make Rotring and Rapidograph. They are cheaper than the Rapidographs and many people like them, but I have had considerable trouble with them clogging, leaking and leaving large ink blots all over my scroll.

Rapidograph: Just to confuse the issue, although the name Rapidograph is trademarked, there are apparently two companies that use it - Rotring and Koh-i-nor (although I suspect they are actually the same company - ask someone who knows about corporate America). I am told that there is a difference, and that the Koh-i-nor are more reliable. As those are what I own, those are the ones I will address. These pens come in quite a few point sizes, and are color coded. I find that for scroll purposes the 3 x 0 (beige) and the 4 x 0 (lavender) are the most useful. These pens are very dear: $15 - $20/pen. They are worth every penny. If you treat them right, they'll treat you right. Replacement points are available if you kill yours for $12- $13. So don't throw anything out until you've looked into parts! There are also two sets of seven pens in a case available - the set with the smaller point sizes is the most useful. The sets are usually priced around $70, but with luck and patience can often be found on sale for much less.

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Technical Pens

If you're using one of the disposables, it comes loaded with it's own ink. For the refillables, the Rapidograph technical pen ink is perfectly fine. It is sold in small plastic squeeze bottles, and is often a part of the pen display. If you don't see it, they may be keeping it behind the counter. There are two kinds, Rapidraw and Ultradraw. Ultradraw is formulated to be non-clogging and works slightly easier.

Ink Cartridges

Many of the ink cartridges contain poor quality ink. It is either very transparent, or not light-fast. Rotring puts a good quality black ink in it's cartridges - there are two kinds, and I have yet to figure out the difference. As an added plus, they can be made to fit on Osmiroid pens. You just have to... convince them. They are sold in small boxes of six cartridges at about $2, and are sometimes kept behind the counter. If you don't see them, ask. The colored inks sold in cartridges is uniformly too transparent for SCA use.

Bottled Inks

There are a plethora of bottled inks on the market. I am only familiar with a few. Many pens come with an adapter to allow the use of bottled ink. Rotring sells one independent of the pens, which, like the cartridges, also fits Osmiroids. Buy the adapter, read the directions. About $4.

*= good stuff buy this

*Calli: Here is where you should buy your red and blue ink. Put it into your calligraphy pen for red lettering. Put it into you technical pen for rubrication. Put it on the cat if you really want to (but not near the scroll). This ink is much more opaque than the other colored inks - not perfect, but definitely workable. The black is dark and dense. This is sometimes hard to find, but is becoming easier. About $3.50 FW: This is labeled India ink for technical pens. I think it is actually an acrylic. Shhh, don't tell anyone. This ink is waterproof, dries very quickly and gives a dense black letter. It tends to clog in very small nibs. About $4.50.

Higgins: Nice black, transparent colors. About $3.

India Ink: India ink is lovely, but if you put it into your cartridge pen, expect to throw it out later. Waterproof means it won't wash out of your pen once it has dried there. Use it with a dip pen and clean your nib off regularly as you go.

Pelikan: Nice Black, transparent colors. About $2.50.

Rotring Artist Colors: These inks come in a veritable rainbow of colors. They are also very transparent, and unsuitable for scrolls. About $5.

* Pen Cleaner: Rapidograph/Koh-i-nor make a pen cleaner for technical pens and airbrushes. It works well on calligraphy pens. Buy some and use it. Regularly.

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Lots and lots of options. Ideal (and period) are ground pigments mixed with either gum arabic, glaire or tempera. Next best are the gouaches (Windsor & Newton are the most commonly available brand), and after that various tube watercolors. Here is a selection. (Acrylics are plastic, and look it. They are not appropriate for scrolls, and so are not covered.)

Ground Pigment: This is ideal, as this is the way painting and illuminating was done in period. There are a few drawbacks - availability and advisability. Ground pigments can be obtained from a few Scadian merchants. Windsor & Newton also offer some of their gouache colors as ground pigments. The jars of color cost anywhere from $10 - $20 each, and I have only seen them in catalogs, and one store in New Jersey. Advisability means the health thing. Many period pigments are deadly poisons. While it is very true that reasonable precautions make using them safely to be possible, I am very uncomfortable with the idea. While accidentally ingesting a small quantity of white lead might not do serious harm to an adult human at 100 to 100 and whatever pounds, those of us with 7 pound cats (or small children) may wish to think again. It's up to you.

Tube Paints

Gouaches and watercolors can usually be found in most art supply stores, although you may have to hunt a bit to find the color you want in the brand you want. The nutshell difference between a gouache and a watercolor is that gouache is opaque and watercolors are transparent. Period style really demands opaque colors, but here are some options.

Some words on using the paints.

1. Gouache and watercolor come out of the tube the approximate consistency of toothpaste. They should be thinned down with water, a drop or two at a time, until you reach the consistency you like.

2. You may wish to use distilled water to thin the paints. Heavy minerals in tap water could affect the color of the paint or it's permanency. Distilled water can be found by the gallon in the housewares section of most Caldors/Bradlees type stores and also in the supermarket. Use some for your paints, and the rest in your iron - that's why they sell it in the first place.

3. The addition of a drop or two of gum arabic in your mixed paint (NOT directly in the tube!) can help to control colors bleeding together when you're layering paint.

4. ** PERMANENCE CODES ** - THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Most paints carry a permanence code on them. This tells you how lightfast the paint is, and how long it is going to last. Only buy paints that are marked as permanent. Make the sales clerk look the code up for you if necessary. Also realize that between brands, the same color may have different permanence codes - Alizarin Crimson has two different permanence codes in two different brands, both made by Windsor & Newton. For Windsor & Newton Designer's Gouache, codes AA, A and B are fine to use. If you have to choose between an A and a B, take the A! NEVER buy a tube with a code of C or it's equivalent, no matter how pretty the color - C is fligitive - it won't be there on the paper anymore in several years. There is no point in painting a scroll if the colors are going to fade away to nothing.

5. Don't trust that the color on the label is the color of the paint - open the tube carefully to check.

Windsor & Newton Designer's Gouache: I think it's safe to say that this is what you'll find most established scribes using. Gouache comes in a tube and is about the consistency of toothpaste before you thin it with water. Windsor & Newton has a wide range of colors, although most stores only carry a limited selection. Prices range from $6 - $14 for a 14ml tube, with most colors towards the low end of the price range. If you're serious about scribing, this is what you want.

Windsor & Newton Artist's Watercolors: I have no personal experience with these. They come in 5ml tubes at $6 - $10 (with two colors at $20) and 14ml tubes at $10 - $17. They have a wider range of colors than the Cottman listed below.

Cottman Watercolors: Also made by Windsor & Newton (do you notice a pattern here?). Again, I have no personal experience with these, although I am told that they work satisfactorily. At my store the 8m1 tubes are $2.70, and there are 21ml tubes available. These are good for trying this hobby out since they're cheap and available in very small quantities. You can always buy gouache later.

Other Paint Related Items

Gum Arabic: This is one of the binders used if you are painting with ground pigments. Also, as mentioned above, a drop or two in your mixed paint will help control bleed. Most stores carry bottles by Windsor & Newton for around $8, and it will take you years to use up.

Gesso: Anyone who has dabbled in oil painting is familiar with gesso. It is any acrylic mostly used as a sealant. A layer of gesso under a metallic paint seals the paper so that all of the pigment remains on top rather than sinking in. This increases the shine. A 4 fluid oz bottle is about $5.50.

Palette: Most stores have palettes of every shape and size known to man. there is usually a choice of white plastic or an aluminum looking material. I find the white to be better because I get a truer feel for the color I'm mixing on a white background. They run about $1 for six wells. Also, some stores carry porcelain/ceramic palettes. These are substantially more expensive. However, they are much harder to knock off the table accidentally, and the wells don't stain like the plastic does.

Toothpicks: These are endlessly useful for mixing paints.

Eyedropper: This is the easiest way to control how much water you are adding to your paint. You can also buy small plastic squeeze bottles for around 25~ that work very well.

Paper Towels: Keep lots nearby. Really.


I'm lazy - if the color is available in a tube, I'll buy it rather than mix it. That way, if you need more on the scroll later, you know it will match. On the other hand this can get expensive very, very quickly. Here is a list of the colors with which I feel that you can mix any other color you may need. These are the names of the W & N gouache colors - for other brands you will have to find the equivalents.

Ultramarine Cadmium Yellow Pale
Alizarin Crimson Zinc White
Olive Green Jet Black
Vandyke Brown Gold

These are the next colors to buy:
Spectrum Red Purple Lake/Light Purple
Sap Green Flesh Tint

After that, add whatever colors strike your fancy.

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Everyone you talk to will extol the virtues of real sable paint brushes, and you will probably gag when you go and price them. You can do good work without sable. The Windsor & Newton Series 7 brushes are supposed to be God's gift to the artist. I have two. I don't like them. Loew Cornell makes a variety of good, affordable brushes in sable, artificial fibers and combinations thereof Brushes can range from $2 to $20 each depending on the brand, and what they are made of Buy what you can afford, and what you like, and when you decide that you want to continue with this, THEN you can buy your expensive brushes. Here are some generalities.

When you look for a brush, the hairs should come to a perfect point. If any are straggling out of the body of the brush, put it down and look for another one. With trial and error, you'll learn what to look for.

Paint brushes come in types and sizes. This information is printed on the shaft of the brush.


Round: This is the designation you want to look for. There are also liners, spotters, fans, etc. You want rounds.


As the number gets larger, so does the brush. To start with, a 1, a 0 and a 00 will be an embarrassment of riches. If you have a #1 brush with a good point, that brush will do everything you need, from filling in backgrounds to fine detail work. Tiny brushes are fine, but they don't hold much paint, and sometimes having to go back to your palette every 1/16" for more paint is more trouble that it is worth. It's a personal choice.


Turpentine: Meant for cleaning oil brushes. Nasty, smelly, dangerous.

Old Masters Brush Cleaner: This stuff is wonderful. It comes in a cake, in a plastic container with a screw top. You wet the brush, and suds it up on the cake. It claims to be able to clean hardened oil brushes. It does wonders with gouache and acrylics. It even smells good! About $6 - lasts forever.

Finally, never let a non-painting friend buy you paint brushes. Friends who do paint will already know better. A paint brush, like shoes, is a very personal piece of equipment that has to fit you just right. Buy your own.

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Everyone wants to do real gold leaf Most people think they can't afford it, are afraid of it, or can't find the proper supplies. In order, not true, nothing ventured nothing gained, and we'll fix that in a few pages. However, here are the alternatives.

Ink: Most metallic inks look like glitter paint - tacky. Don't use them.

Metallic gold markers: These pens are oil based and you will get a greasy ring around the gold unless you put down a layer of gesso first. Also, you can't do fine work.

Liquid Leaf: This is the same stuff as the markers, only in a bottle. It will work, but it ruins the paintbrush, and the smell can asphyxiate a small rodent at fifty paces. There are more pleasant alternatives.

Paint: Windsor & Newton makes a good metallic gouache. I hear Pelikan's has gone downhill. If you have the time and inclination to lay down a layer of gesso first wherever the gold paint will be, it will shine more.

Composition Leaf There are several kinds of fake gold leaf that is applied in the same fashion as the real stuff, and serves as good practice. Old World Leaf is one that looks very good -I've had it mistaken for the real thing. Have someone show you how to use it. They also make aluminum leaf, which is a nice non Tarnishing substitute for silver. A package of 25 sheets, 5-1/2" square is about $9 for gold, and $10 for aluminum.

Shell Gold: This is also sold as "real gold water color." That's exactly what it is. It's period, but somewhat difficult to come by, and horrifically expensive. I find it looks much the same as the gold gouache.

If you are determined to use real gold, your biggest problem is going to be getting the tools and supplies. Be prepared for art store clerks to look at you like you've lost your mind, and then to end up mail ordering most of what you need. Here is the supply list, and the modern gesso recipe developed by Master Robert Whitcombe of Brandywine.

Gold leaf: Loose leaf, NOT patent leaf

Glassine paper/silk scraps: Like wax paper, only different. The sleeves that the post office puts sheets of stamps in is just exactly this. I find glassine works best for composition leaf, silk for gold leaf

Agate Burnisher: These are almost impossible to buy from a retail store. There are a few places that carry them, a few places that mail order them, and in a pinch a smooth piece of agate from your local new age store or nature shop will do nicely.

X-Acto knife

Fan brush

Fine point tweezers: Use these for nothing else.

Gesso: not the stuff straight from the bottle. Here's the recipe.

  • 5 parts acrylic gesso
  • 4 parts gloss medium
  • 1 part supersaturated solution of sugar water
  • a pinch of dry pigment, or some drops of red ink or gouache: something to give it some color

    These are the bare minimum tools necessary. A gilding knife, a gilding pad, several shapes of burnishers, different types of gesso - these are nice, they're convenient, but they are not necessary.

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    An item that you'll want eventually is some sort of a box to store all of your supplies in. You'll notice that most of the art stores sell these neat "Art Boxes" with all of the compartments. Many of them are made by Plano. DO NOT BUY AN "ART BOX." Go to your local sporting goods store, or sports department. Look at the tackle boxes - they're with the fishing equipment. Notice that many of them are also made by Plano. Notice that there are more compartments than on the art boxes, and that you can re-arrange them. Notice that they don't come in "designer colors" (actually, they're usually rather ugly). Notice that there are many more sizes and styles. Notice that the price is probably MUCH lower.

    Most of the companies that make tackle boxes have discovered that if they label them "art boxes," make them in different colors and jack the price up, artists who have never gone fishing will buy them. My first scribe's kit was a tackle box my father let me have because he had outgrown it. Soon I had outgrown it also. I found a great tackle box with all of the adjustable compartments my heart could desire and lots of room in the bottom for my pen sets and bottles. It even had a slip that I could send in and for $2 get an engraved name plate. I had my Scadian name put on it. It's an absolutely hideous mustard on top, olive on the bottom and it was the price of a art box half it's size. I'm happy.

    A word on shopping for tackle boxes: if you have any awkwardly shaped items - pen sets, tall bottles, palettes, etc., take them with you when you go shopping. That way you'll be able to comparison shop which style will fit your supplies best. Also, late fall is a great time to shop for tackle boxes - many sporting goods stores and departments are trying to clear out summer gear to make room for skiing stuff- which makes for some great sales. Always buy your box too big -the stuff will expand to fill the available space. And if you completely outgrow your box and need a new one - put your embroidery stuff in it or give it to a friend. They're great for a lot of things.

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    The New Scribe's Shopping List(Auntie Eloise's Recommendations)
    11 x 14" pad Bristol paper - acid free, 100 lb, vellum finish US$ 7.98
    18" cork backed ruler US$ 6.35
    Ames Lettering Guide US$ 1.95
    Automatic Pencil US$ 8.50
    Staedtler white plastic eraser US$ 1.25
    Compass US$ 7.99
    Osmiroid calligraphy pen US$ 9.95
    Italic Broad nib US$ 4.95
    Box of Rotring ink cartridges - black US$ 1.75
    Koh-i-Nor Rapido-eze Pen Cleaner - 8 oz US$ 4.95
    Windsor & Newton Designer's Gouache
    Ultramarine US$ 6.05
    Alazarin Crimson US$ 6.05
    Olive Green US$ 6.05
    Vandyke Brown US$ 6.05
    Cadmium Yellow Pale US$ 14.95
    Jet Black US$ 6.05
    Zinc White US$ 6.05
    Gold US$ 9.95
    Loew-Corning paintbrush - #1 round US$ 4.95
    Plastic palette - 6 wells US$ .60
    TOTAL FOR THE DAY US$ 122.37

    Before you panic, remember: this is full kit to produce scrolls. You can add items here and there. You can buy Cottman rather than gouache. And we've all spent more than that on fabric at times anyway, haven't we?

    NOTE: These prices came from Connecticut, from a combination of discount and full price art stores in October of 1995. No sales tax is included. Provided only for the purpose of a rough estimate. Prices and tax will vary.

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    This list is not exhaustive - many scribes favorite art stores are individual stores or local chains. The fact that I regularly patronize Koenig's Art Emporium in western Connecticut is useless to someone in, say, Virginia. Therefore, this is a short list of the places that mail order good stuff - I'm sure there are others If you find them, let me know!

    M = mail order D = discount W - wow!!! m,d Dick Blick: This chain is located mostly in the Midwest, but there are a few scattered elsewhere. They have a good selection, and their prices range from mild discounts to average. At the time of this writing, I know of thirty-three retail stores, but much of their business is mail order - call or send $5 for the catalog. To place an order: 1-800-447-8192 Customer service: 1-800-723-2787 Product information: 1-800-933-2542 And these are the retail stores:
    Newtown, CT 203-270-8396 Plainville, CT 203-747-5551 Kenesaw, GA 404-514-8456
    Roswell, GA 404-933-0240 Tucker, GA 404-939-5719 Cedar Rapids, IA 313-373-2999
    Iowa City, IA 319-337-5745 W. Des Moines, IA 515-222-0941 Decatur, IL 217-875-0265
    Galesburg IL 309-343-1411 Moline, IL 309-686-5211 Springfield, IL 217-787-6120
    Wheaton IL 708-653-0569 Fairview Heights, IL 618-394-0222 Galesburg, IL 309-343-1411
    Evansville, IN 812-476-9551 Dearborn, MI 313-581-7063 Minneapolis, MI 512-333-1595
    Minneapolis, MN 612-593-6421 Minnetonka, MN 612-636-2818 Edina, MN 612-926-6151
    Roseville, MN 612-636-2818 Columbia, OH 315-875-4777 Kansas City, MO 816-753-1888
    Lincoln, NE 402-474-2062 Omaha, NE 402-379-6077 Henderson, NV 702-451-7662
    Las Vegas, NV 702-368-0209 Dublin, OH 614-792-1900 Emmaus, PA 215-965-6051
    Lemoyne, PA 717-731-4463 Wilkes-Barre, PA 717-825-2211

    The Gabriel Guild: I have seen these folks at two Pennsics now. They appear to be an actual guild, complete with newsletter. They were selling a wonderful array of period tools and supplies - oak gall ink, slaked plaster, shell gold, etc. Their prices are rather high in my opinion, but the selection was wonderful and rare.

    	The Gabriel Guild
    	6 North Pearl Street
    	Suite 404D
    	Port Chester, NY 10573

    m,d Master John the Artificer: Master John, as you have probably guessed, is a Scadian merchant. He is a wonderful source for period pigments, gold and silver leaf, and a few other items. He's also a lot of fun to talk to, as well as the best reference for how to use the materials that he sells. His prices are more that reasonable, and he makes most of his pigments himself In addition, he TELLS you which ones are toxic, so you don't have to wonder. I buy my gold from him. He will not ship until the check has cleared, but he ships very promptly. He has a price sheet available, and he can be found merchanting at many events, including in the wooden chapel at Pennsic.

    	Master John the Artificer
    	John R. Rose
    	250 Emerson Street
    	Pittsburgh, PA 15206
    	412-362-0421	(leave a message you paid for the call!)

    m,w John Neal Bookseller: As you may have guessed, books, but oh, so much more. The selection of books is mind-numbing, with a section sure to make Scadian scribes drool on their boots. This catalog includes facsimiles that your bookstore can't get for you - if you're willing to pay that much money for one book. There is also a supplies section with pens, inks, papers, gilding supplies, etc. Send $3 for a catalog

    	John Neal, Bookseller
    	1833 Spring Garden Street
    	Greensboro, NC 27403
    	800-369-9598	(orders)
    	   Fax:	910-272-9015

    m,w New York Central Art Supply: I know a lot of people who swear by this store. They seem to carry every art supply known to man. They have a catalog just for paper. I have had considerable difficulty in dealing with these people - everything I have received has been geared to setting up a commercial account - not an individual. We perhaps had a failure to communicate. Maybe you'll do better.

    	New York Central Art Supply
    	62 Third Avenue
    	New York, NY 10003

    m Paper & Ink Books: They have a lovely catalog. They carry a boggling array of books, and while most regard modern application, many apply to our time frame. They also carry pens, inks, pigments, fine papers, gilding supplies and gift items. Well worth the browsing time.

    	Paper & Ink Books
    	15309A Sixes Bridge Road
    	Emmitsburg, MD 2~727

    m,d,w Pearl Art: You have to see this place to believe it. There are eleven stores that I know of; and while they are confined to the eastern seaboard, they mail order. This place sells many items at a deep discount - W&N gouache for $3.10 a tube! Their selection is mind boggling - some of the stores stock gilding supplies. The store is an education, and worth a trip - I happily drive 3-1/2 hours to get there. I can't say enough about this place, so I'll shut up and list the locations.
    New York, NY 800-221-6845 Long Island, NY 516-731-3700 Cambridge, MA 617-547-6600
    Paramus, NJ 201-447-3033 Woodbridge, NJ 908-624-9400 Cherry Hill, NJ 609-997-6500
    Alexandria, VA 703-960-5700 Ft. Lauderdale, FL 305-623-4600 Miami FL 305-623-4600
    Tampa, FL 813-286-8000 Orlando, FL 407-831-3000

    	Pearl by Mail
    	International Catalog & Mail Order
    	308 Canal Street
    	New York,NY 10013
    	800-451-7327 (for catalog orders only)
    		Send $1 for a catalog

    m,w Pendragon: This establishment is listed in the Standards book. THE ADDRESS HAS CHANGED!! Pendragon has changed ownership. I sent away for their catalog. Then I spent a week drooling over it. Then I started ordering things from it. The catalog is worth having just for the information on pens, paintbrushes and inks that is included. They sell brands of pens that I like, and many that I've never heard of They sell quills, gold, gilding supplies, hand-marbled paper, papyrus and vellum. I consider myself to be fairly well versed, and I don't know what half the stuff is for. You need to own this catalog.

    	P.O. Box 1995
    	Arlington Heights, IL 60006-1995
    		Send $2 for a catalog

    A last word on the businesses listed above: I have not ordered from most of them - I merely wish you to know what is available. As such, I cannot and do not vouch for them. My advise is to send off for catalogs, do some comparison shopping, and make your own decisions. Have fun!

    These next two companies may seem to be in the wrong handout. Bass Pro and Cabela's are outdoors suppliers - camping, hunting, fishing - Fishing! Tackle boxes! Not so incidentally, much of my Pennsic gear comes from these stores, so having the catalogs is a good thing.

    M Bass Pro Shops: These folks have a good selection of tackle boxes, their prices are good, and a few times a year they have specialty sale catalogs - fishing, camping, etc. Occasionally they run a few weeks where all shipping is free. Their return policy is very user-friendly: I called for advice on repairing a zipper I had broken on a tent that had been purchased from them over a year previously. The answer was, "Send it back, we'll send you a new one." Good people to deal with.

    	Bass Pro Shops
    	1935 5. Campbell
    	Springfield, MO 65898-0123

    m Cabela's: As above, only without the tent story.

    	812 - 13th Avenue
    	Sidney, NE 69160-9555
    	1 -800-237-4444

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